BY Eng Lenroc
How to Install a Gypsum Ceiling Board
Step 1 - Important Measurements
To begin, use your tape measure to measure the ceiling by using a wall that is perpendicular to the joists. When you have done this, measure from the middle of the joist that is closest to 8 feet away from the wall. This will show you the starting point for laying your gypsum ceiling boards.
Step 2 - Custom Gypsum Boards
Take your razor knife and shorten a piece of gypsum board to this exact length. Use the t-square whilst scoring the length of gypsum board in order to ensure that your cut is completely straight. Next, set up the two stepladders so that there is one by the wall from which you measured the joist - and one in the middle of the room where the other end of gypsum board will rest. Position the board so that the cut end faces the wall. This way, flush gypsum board connections can be achieved in the middle of the room's ceiling. Your assistant must help to hold the gypsum board against the ceiling.
Step 3 - Screwing Them Up
Take your screw gun and fix drywall screws into the edges of the board every six inches, making sure that you only do this when underneath a joist or it will not hold properly. The room will be incredibly unsafe if the ceiling is constructed with this level of carelessness so ensure you plan correctly. It will not be hard to judge the position of the joist as you can follow their length from behind each side of the gypsum board. When attaching later boards, you will be able to fix screws parallel to existing ones in order to ensure you properly screw into the joists. Lay them end to end in a neat, professional manner. Ensure the screw heads push beneath the surface of the gypsum board.
Step 4 - Seams Simple Enough
Next, smother the seams between the gypsum boards with your drywall tape. Then spread with joining compound using your drywall knife. Feel free to use joining compound to cover sunken screw holes. The drying time for this procedure is around four hours. Use your drywall sandpaper to smooth over all of the dried joining compound. A second layer of compound must then be added, following the same technique before applying an extremely thin third layer. After this has been dried and sanded, you can begin painting your new gypsum board ceiling.
The right tools can make the difference between an easy, successful drywall project and a frustrating, error-filled trainwreck. Knowing which tools to add to your collection and understanding how to use them properly are both components of becoming a better home improver. Here are eight must-have drywall tools that can help equip you for anything your next project throws at you.
Jab saw
The jab saw is basically only useful for cutting drywall and is thus highly specialized within your collection – but when you need it, you really need it. It is essentially a serrated knife with a tip sharp enough to easily penetrate drywall but not so sharp that it will cut your finger when you apply light pressure. The jab saw is made for cutting holes in drywall and for cuts from six to eight inches in length.
Electric drywall saw
It is virtually impossible to replace the efficiency of an electric drywall saw. It’s ability to easily cut through a sheet of drywall makes it invaluable on large-scale projects. It may not always be needed, but when it is, its speed and precision make a tremendous difference. Some think a jab saw can substitute for an electric drywall saw on most occasions, but that’s simply not the case. When you need a fast, clean, powerful cut, you need an electric drywall saw.
Drywall knives in 12-inch and 4- or 6-inch sizes
Drywall knives are a highly specialized item, so other types of putty knives simply won’t work as a replacement. These are rather inexpensive and thus can be easily replaced when worn or damaged. The shorter 4- and 6-inch sizes are ideal for slopping mud into place and for taping, while the longer 12-inch size is used for feathering and final coats.
Cordless drill
Drywall used to be fastened almost exclusively with a hammer and nail. Today, screw guns provide much greater efficiency and are able to automatically load up the next screw when the job is ready for it. The increased power of an 18-volt drill (versus 12-volt) easily draws screws into wood studs without any concern of durability. A drill with a clutch helps the bit stop turning when screws are fully driven in and prevents stripping of the screw head. Cordless drills provide a torque-control advantage over their corded counterparts, as well.
Utility knife
There’s a good chance a utility knife is already a staple within your tool collection and can be a great asset to drywall work. Be sure to not use a utility knife with snap-off blades, but instead use one with interchangeable blades that set into a screw-down handle. This provides greater stability and safety throughout the job.
Abrasive and non-abrasive sanding sponges
It’s important to have one of both types of these sponges in your arsenal. An abrasive sanding sponge has both a coarse and a smooth side, while the non-abrasive sponge is smooth on both sides and is used for wet sanding. You shouldn’t rely on these handheld sponges for all your sanding purposes, but they are great for minor touch-ups.
Sanding pole
The sanding pole provides a larger and more versatile option compared to the sponges. Its reach and flexibility allows you to easily sand ceilings and corners and provides an even and consistent finish throughout the project.
Drywall screws
Drywall screws are now the fastener of choice – not nails – and come in both coarse-thread and fine-thread varieties. Coarse-thread screws draw easily into wood studs and are usable for a wide range of other home improvement projects, while fine-thread screws are best-suited for metal framing. A 5/8-inch screw is the most practical length for a typical drywall project.
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Thanks cool
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